Sipping Chibuku and Crunching Mopane Worms: Embracing the Boma Dinner Experience in Victoria Falls

At the Boma Dinner and Dance Show in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, I tasted a world of unforgettable flavours - including one I used to be afraid of.

​This post may contain affiliate links, which means that if you make a purchase, we may get a small commission.

The white container with jaunty red and blue stripes reminds me of a barber pole. The motto “It’s hygienic!” jumps off the cardboard but isn’t quite the reassurance I need to gulp the murky grey sludge within. I’m 23 years old and living in Malawi for the first time, where clean water is precious and pricey, while sorghum beer, like that found in the colourful container, is cheap and plentiful. It’s called Chibuku, which is indeed hygienic thanks to the industrial processing plants that create it across sub-Saharan Africa. It’s the undisputed regional favourite, and I want to try it, but I’m too scared. It doesn’t help that I’m not an adventurous drinker - nor that my colleagues joke that Chibuku ‘tastes the same going down as it does coming back up.’ Instead, I buy myself soft drinks. They, too, are hygienic, but they’re also safe, and something like shame gnaws in my stomach, telling me that I don’t have the real spirit of adventure running through my veins. When I return to Canada, a bit of regret follows me, certain that the opportunity to have a real travel exploit has passed me by, and I have only my fretful self to blame.

It takes 14 years, but Chibuku and I find each other again - and this time, it takes me by surprise. I’m in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, all grown up and with nothing to prove - nothing, that is, until I hear about a legendary local restaurant that offers a scrumptious buffet, complete with black, glistening, crunchy, fried mopane worms. Falling somewhere between an economical protein source in rural areas and a fun, salty snack in posh city bars, mopane worms are one of Zimbabwe’s most famous foods. The worm in question is actually a caterpillar, a deconstructed emperor moth, if you will. And its favourite food is the tender leaves of the mopane tree.

Once again, I find myself both greatly intrigued and rather terrified all at the same time.

Researching mopane worms doesn’t help my indecision. When plucked from the trees, mopane worms are thick, plump, and nearly as long as a human hand. Those in the mopane harvesting game know the exact knack to kill the worms by squeezing out their slimy green innards (I beg of you, do not Google this) before laying them out to dry, where they shrink dramatically in size. They are beloved both as a potato-chip style snack, a light dusting of salt putting them into the category of ‘bet you can’t eat just one,’ and a more sophisticated delicacy in a sizzling dish with peri chillies and lush peanut sauce. Everyone has an opinion about the best region for mopane worms, and following the discussions, the passionate opinions of honey connoisseurs come to mind.  

At Victoria Falls’ Boma Dinner and Drum Show (part of Victoria Falls Safari Lodge) a night of song, drumming, dance, local cuisine, and crispy seasoned mopane worms beckon - and the staff will even issue you a certificate upon request to mark the occasion of your culinary boldness. But before you can tackle the mopane or other dishes, a smiling server is eager to escort you to your table - and to serve you a welcoming glass of Chibuku. 

My husband looked at me with his eyebrow ever so slightly raised, the hint of a smile playing around his mouth as he attentively listened to the staff’s explanation of how Chibuku is a traditional drink of welcome, a beverage served among friends. He had long known of my Chikbuku stories and my regret. It was now or never! The glass looked small enough, no more than a shot, really. And if the curmudgeonly table of retired English doctors behind me could hold their Chibuku, I could. Down the hatch!

To my immense relief, it wasn’t bad. In fact, it wasn’t bad at all. It tasted like a cross between beer and a milkshake made of corn and rum. As a written description, I realise this is hardly an enticement! But it was boozy and sweet and earthy, with a thick texture that I felt no need to linger over. It was nothing close to the hygienic, horrible beverage I dreamed it to be all those years later, and while I felt no need for a refill and could scarcely picture myself sipping on it to refresh myself after a hot day, it wasn’t bad. Manageable. Perhaps an acquired taste. The kind of drink you likely stay loyal to when you try it at a young age. Chased by a dainty plate of appetisers the waiter brought over (bites of smoked crocodile, seared impala with an apricot compote, and pumpkin fritters) made it all the more enjoyable. Still, I was happy when presented with a wine list specialising in reasonably priced South African blends. 

I was happy to linger over the wine for an extra glass while the initial long line at the buffet let up; we happily enjoyed Boma’s fantastic presentation of traditional dance, drumming, and singing. Craft vendors set up unobtrusive displays of wooden carvings (we grabbed a plump hippo for our collection), and, as we explored, we were draped in colourful, patterned sarongs during our visit. The energy in the room was light and lively, humming with collective excitement. It wasn’t only the Chibuku or the thrill of trying mopane that had everyone in such a good mood: the warm staff, the joyous music, and the refreshing breeze made for a perfectly relaxing evening. Yes, there was a bit of a “this is what people from North America and Europe want southern Africa to look and sound like” feel to things, the same as you’d find in any restaurant designed exclusively for tourists, but Boma doesn’t have overwhelming tourist trap-vibes

The extensive buffet contained a salad bar with side dishes like seasoned green beans, lightly dressed fingerling potatoes, and roasted beets. The popular meat station offered Zimbabwean cuisine, including guinea fowl stew, BBQ warthog, wild boar sausages, and North American-style favourites like chicken kebabs and stir-fried vegetables. The butternut squash soup was ladled out into adorable mini cast iron cauldrons so guests could keep their soup warm until precisely the right time—cute and practical! 

And then, the mopane worms arrived!

Boma’s tone encourages everyone to come, eat, and explore as much as they want, however, they want. The buffet style allows for maximum flexibility for guests. You’re not forced to try unfamiliar foods and no one will say anything if you stick to steak with mushroom sauce. But if you’re keen to experience the flavours of local meats and produce - or the worms! - they’re happy to serve up as much or as little as you like. It's also fine to just sit back and enjoy the energetic dinner show of singing, drumming, and dancing. I think the staff struck a nice balance, acknowledging that mopane worms aren’t an everyday snack for most of their overseas guests but never marketing them as “weird” or “exotic.” 

So what did we think about the mopane worms? Ryan described his taste as a crunchy, slightly burnt potato chip. There was no particularly strong taste and nothing to prevent him from trying them again should circumstances call for it. However, there wasn’t anything about the taste and experience he liked enough to return for more. For him, it fell squarely under the category of: ‘Glad I tried it, there are definitely worse things in the world to eat, there’s no burning need for me to track them down again.’ In short: Not too bad, but not good enough to replace my favourite potato chips.

As for me? C’mon! I used up all my moxie getting acquainted at long last with Chibuku. I had no nerve left for mopane worms! I loved everything about Boma, from the fantastic singing to the delicious soup and the chance to try Chibuku felt like a great full circle moment from my life in Malawi. But mopane worms? You know me. I only have so much room for adventure on any given night. But perhaps, like Chibuku, they’ll be waiting for me somewhere down the road.

Want to visit Boma for yourself? It's open for the drum and dinner show every night between 7:00-10:00 PM. You'll need transportation to get there, as it's located about 2 miles outside of Victoria Falls. Your hotel or guest house can easily arrange for a taxi. Reservations are strongly recommended (but not mandatory) and you should check out their website about what time you should ideally arrive so you don't miss out on the drum show and other aspects of the evening's entertainment. 

If you enjoyed this piece, you'll also like:

My 8 Favourite Things To Do In Malawi
15 Cozy Microadventures in Victoria Falls
Crossing the Zimbabwe-Zambia Border on Foot