Sociable! Exploring Port-Royal National Historic Site and Discovering The Order of Good Cheer

Journey through history: Food, friendship, and resilience at Port-Royal National Historic Site.

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Picture this: Saint Croix Island, the first French settlement in Canada, where in 1604, 79 brave souls faced a winter beyond description. Water, food, and shelter were all but nonexistent. 35 men perished from the cold, disease, and lack of provisions (including scurvy-preventing vitamin-rich foods). If the French wanted to establish a presence in North America, something had to change, and quickly. 

It did. Thanks to the generosity of the local Mi’kmaq people, the French learned about a more hospitable site nearby on the mainland, a site that was likely very close to the current Port-Royal National Historic Site. Conditions improved, but life for a French soldier in the early 1600s was anything but luxurious. Scurvy persisted, and morale was poor. But what to do?

Turns out, soldiers living about 400 years ago are just like you and me. They work best with full bellies and a little good cheer. As such, in 1606 Samuel de Champlain founded The Order of Good Cheer, the first dinner club in Canada (and probably all of North America). These dinners were spirited affairs, complete with gourmet food and visiting dignitaries. Here's what it's like to walk in their footsteps.

You Gain A Whole New Appreciation For Your Favourite Foods

What was on the menu at the Order of Good Cheer? Well, the inventive menus might have piqued the appetite of the soldiers. However, I’m glad that boiled moose nose stew and grilled beaver tail aren’t in my culinary repertoire (but to each their own – reports from the attending officials state that beaver tail was unbelievably tender). Our guide, historical interpreter Pierre Longtin, told us that, aside from these two dishes, there’s little known about what else was served at Order of Good Cheer dinners. However, in the spirit of one-upmanship and a huge desire to honour dignitaries such as Mi’kmaq leader Chief Membertou, we can safely assume that there were some pretty elaborate and unusual concoctions.​

You Learn That Comfort Food Is Timeless

There was one thing guests could count on that I bet we’d all enjoy. Fresh-baked bread! Pierre showed us a reproduction of the kitchen that the Port-Royal chef would have worked with, and their wood-fired oven wouldn’t look out of place at a modern pizza restaurant today.

Curious About Hangover Cures? The Order of Good Cheer Needed Them Too!

Indulge a little too much at one of the Order of Good Cheer dinners? Luckily, pioneering pharmacist Louis Hébert is stationed at Port-Royal and he might be able to cure what ails you. His medicinal knowledge was raised exponentially thanks to his friendship with Chief Membertou and the Mi’kmaq community, and stomach remedies are included in his notes. However, you might want to think twice before you try any of the remedies Hébert recorded. No, there wasn’t a flaw in his knowledge, but the translations into English are more than a little inaccurate! 

Friendship Makes Everything Better

Increasing dietary diversity was a saving grace for the French soldiers. Vitamin C-rich Mi’kmaq dishes, like spruce tea, saved lives. However, the French officials noted that the Mi’kmaq community was in much better spirits than they were in the winter, despite the French eventually having more robust shelters and better clothing. Their secret? The power of community ties. As such, the Order of Good Cheer didn’t just desire to improve diets. It was designed to hearten spirits as well. As such, the French soldiers didn't just survive. They started to thrive. And I’d like to think they were among the first to call out the signature phrase heard at bars, pubs, and – yes– dinner clubs: “Sociable!”

Things To Know Before Your Visit

Port-Royal National Historic Site welcomes visitors to its grounds year-round, but its buildings and programs are only operational from mid-May to mid-October. During this time, you can enjoy guided tours by costumed interpreters and a full program of activities, including live music. And if you’re keen to embrace the spirit of the Order of Good Cheer, you can check out the Order of Good Cheer Trail and have your trail passport stamped at Port-Royal.


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