This tiny coffee shop boasts a historic location and the power of transformative social enterprise. “They love a social enterprise in Hong Kong.” I wasn’t much more than 12 hours into my first trip to Hong Kong and was eagerly sharing a report of my morning’s adventures to a friend who was on their umpteenth visit yet hadn’t heard of where I had been, a teeny-tiny non-profit coffee shop. Given that we were in a luxury hotel lobby, surrounded by sumptuous designer shops, I couldn’t see much evidence of her declaration. Still, I deferred to her superior knowledge of the region. In the coming days, I would soon see she was right, and with every visit I made to The Nest, I observed just how much Hong Kongers and the people who love visiting them appreciate something different that makes a difference. My first visit to The Nest, the social enterprise-slash-coffee shop in question, was much more a case of happy accident than design. I had arrived in Hong Kong late the previous night after a wonderful but draining epic travel day. Even with the incredible coziness of my business class pods on Cathay Pacific, I was wiped out and ready for rest. I found plenty of it among the soft blankets and thick curtains of my hotel for the week, the Mandarin Oriental. However, jet lag does not respect dark rooms or snug beds, and I was awake before dawn on my first full day in Hong Kong. Still, I had enjoyed a solid sleep, and I was ambitious and eager to explore. I had Lonely Planet’s pocket guide to Hong Kong in my, well, pocket, and I was ready to see the city, starting with the famous public squares, monuments, and buildings all around my hotel. While my map looked straightforward enough, and Hong Kong’s streets are well-labelled, I lost my bearings within minutes of stepping outside my hotel, which wasn’t bad. I had thrown myself into the morning rush hour traffic flow, and walking the streets of this new, unfamiliar destination was wonderful. (Funnily enough, I noticed an older woman pushing a young toddler in a stroller during this walk. I saw the same woman and girl hours later in a completely different part of the city – perhaps Hong Kong was a small town in disguise?) I spent a glorious forty minutes or so just meandering the streets among a wave of people, marvelling at the glittering window displays of the international brands making their presence known, before I got serious about tracking down the landmarks I was keen to see. First on my list was St. John’s Cathedral. St. John’s is the oldest surviving Western ecclesiastical building in Hong Kong. It was constructed in 1849 and is a beautiful, curious anomaly among the modern megastructures crowding Hong Kong’s central district today. Despite the crowds and bustle just a block or two away, crowds I had been a part of all morning, it felt like a tranquil oasis of space, quiet, and greenery in the city’s heart. The tiny Nest is a big part of that. When I saw it, nestled beside the cathedral's admrinistatitve buildings, I knew I had found MY PLACE in Hong Kong. The Nest is, in their own words, “more than just delicious bites and mouthwatering temptations.” The Nest is a cafe which is operated by the Nesbitt Centre, a not-for-profit social enterprise dedicated to empowering people with learning disabilities. In addition to their outpost next to St. John’s, they also operate the large, sunny Museum Cafe that’s part of the Hong Kong Maritime Museum (sigh! If I only I had known it at the time… the museum was so close to me), the Nest Bakery near Chai Wan Road, and a second Nest Cafe that’s part of St. Andrew’s Church on Nathan Road. People with learning disabilities staff all locations. St. John’s Nest – MY Nest – is tiny. It is so tiny that there are no seats inside. In fact, there’s barely standing room, but there’s a roomy, tree-filled courtyard at its doors, so you have plenty of places to sit, and people watch come and go between the cafe, the offices, and the cathedral. And talk about good people-watching! It felt like I was observing a small slice of Hong Kong life on each visit. There was such an interesting mix, from locals to expats to tourists, and plenty of folks whose vibe suggested they were regulars. Suddenly, Hong Kong – one of the world’s most densely populated spots – didn’t feel so crowded. Being part of The Nest’s regulars, if only for a few days, made me feel a part of the city and close to its people. I see what my friend was talking about, why Hong Kong loves a social enterprise. They prove this is a place of connections, not commerce. My drink of choice at The Nest was licorice and peppermint tea, the perfect soothing blend to battle jet lag and ground myself for the day. I loved lingering in the courtyard, waiting for my tea to cool, writing in my journal, and frowning at my map as I tried to wrestle out directions. Despite its tiny size, The Nest also offers a small menu of sandwiches and desserts and I was mightily tempted by their lemon bars but ultimately picked one up, to my everlasting regret. If you visit, you should note that you can’t bring food and drink to the adjacent St. John’s Cathedral. The caretaker kindly directed me to leave my drink at the base of a notice board outside (yes, it was still there after my visit!) On my last day in Hong Kong, I had just a few hours to spare in the morning between packing up and preparing for my final scheduled activities. I had a long list of places I wanted to see in that short time, but I knew I had to make one last visit to The Nest. I envisioned quickly grabbing my drink and scurrying away to see the markets and temples that remained on my list. Still, once I got my steaming tea, I knew there was no way I’d scamper away without lingering under the trees, journal in hand, eyes and ears attuned to watching my fellow nesties go about their morning routine. I had found my perfect perch in Hong Kong.
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