A Day In Paris: What To Do On A Paris Layover of 3 Hours Or More

Updated in 2022! Who says a day in Paris isn't enough time to see the sights? Whether your Paris layover is 3 hours or more, you can still have an incredible trip to the City of Lights.

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A day in Paris should always include a glimpse of the architectural details of the Louvre.

Paris, more than any other city, is a destination meant to be savored. This is a haven for the lazy and the lackadasicle, a place where sitting and doing nothing isn't just encouraged but revered as an art form. As such, when I had the opportunity to plan a day in Paris - and just one day - for travelling friends, I was initially stumped. But then I remembered how much readers love my piece on seeing London in just three hours (yes, THREE) and how my last trip to Paris was indeed so short that I actually made notes for a future three hour Paris layover guide - and naturally promptly forgot about them, until someone else was in need.

If you dream of a sleepy Paris sojurn but your reality is a lickity-split layover, I've got you covered. Who says a day in Paris (or even much less) can't be wonderful?

A day in Paris: Layover logistics

Any successful layover trip is all about mastering the logistics. When I talk about 3 hours in Paris (or 5 hours in Paris or a day in Paris....) I'm talking about productive time on the ground and I'm assuming you have taken into account the time you need to get off the plane, clear customs, store your luggage at the airport (read all the details here), and take the train into the city. I'm also assuming you're likewise planning your return to the airport, the time it takes to retrive your luggage from the storage centre, the process of checking in for your next flight, and the generous time you'll need to clear security. 

Feeling organized? Good. Now get ready to move fast because we're ready for stop one.

Paris layover stop one: Notre Dame, Shakespeare and Company, and Square Rene Vivani

Let's be honest. You could head to just about any destination in Paris for a couple of hours and you'd have a pretty memorable layover. But if you're looking to take in as much of the city as you can in a way that makes the most of your limited time, starting at Notre Dame de Paris Cathedral is a smart choice.

While closed for refurbishment following the 2019 fires, you can still admire this beautiful structure from a distance. (Update! I visited in October 2021 and I can confirm that there's a lot going on, including murals put up on the boards which protect the construction zone.) Plus, the St. Michel Notre Dame transit stop is a part of the RER train's blue line - which means you board a train at Charles de Gaulle airport and alight right outside the Cathedral (ultra short layovers always make savvy use of public transit stops). 

While facing the Cathedral, look to your right and across the road. You'll see the leafy trees at Square Rene Vivani and the green and yellow lettering of Shakespeare and Company bookstore. Traffic permitting, on your way from the Cathedral to the bookstore, walk through Square Rene Vivani. This pretty little public park might be in the heart of all the tourist action but it's mostly locals who hang out here. It's also home to the oldest tree in the city, a locust dating to 1601.

Shakespeare and Company is arguably the most famous independent English bookstore in the world, where everyone who was anyone in Paris's expat literary scene first got their start. After visiting the Cathedral and the square, pop in for a quick look around and grab a coffee at their adjacent cafe. But don't linger - your day is just starting.

Exploring time: 25 minutes (This is time spent checking out the places of interest, like the outside of the church and the bookstore. We'll add on walking time at the end).

Paris layover stop two: Saint-Séverin church, the Latin Quarter, and the Odeon Theatre

Moving away from the river, pause a moment to take in the Saint-Séverin church (at 2 Rue des Prêtres Saint-Séverin). A house of worship has sat on this site since the 11th century, with significant architectural expansion in the years that followed. While I wouldn't normally instruct people to go out of their way to see this particular church, the beauty of a short layover are all the interesting things you can explore while moving between main attractions. 

Continue on through the Latin Quarter, passing tiny shops and little food stands and old buildings until you hit Boul St-Germain. Take a quick left past Blvd St. Michel (just by theMusee de Cluny) and then hang a right on Rue Racine (pausing if you have the time and inclination to visit Gibert Joseph bookstore on one side and Gibert Joseph music store on the other). Following Rue Racine, it's just a short walk to the Odeon Theatre. One of six national theatres in the city, you don't have to have tickets to the opera to poke your head in and admire the lobby.

(If you have some time to spare, pop into Peter Beier Chokolade, at 62 rue Monsieur le Prince, just a few minutes from Odeon, by the east boundaries of Luxembourg Garden. This Danish chocolate shop is one of the very best in the French capital).

Exploring time: 15 minutes

Paris layover stop three: Luxembourg Gardens

Photo by J Shim on Unsplash

Believe it or not, these gorgeous manicured lawns, trees, and flower gardens are technically the grounds of the French Senate but Parisians treat the Luxembourg Gardens like a mini version of New York's Central Park. It's the perfect place to relax, meet with friends, and enjoy a picnic. You'll find public washrooms on the west side (just north of the tennis courts) and at the south-east exit. Keep your eyes open for the Statue of Liberty (yes, a twin of the one in New York),  as well as a small puppet playhouse.

Update! Having recently returned from Paris, I can confirm that there are several clean public washroom sites in the Luxembourg Gardens BUT you will need a 1 Euro coin to use them. So hold onto your change!

You're going to exit from the north side, only instead of emerging back at the Odeon Theatre, you're going to be a little bit further west, by the Musee du Luxembourg.

Exploring time: 15 minutes

Paris layover stop four: Saint-Sulpice church, Cosi, Laudree, Pont 

Cross the road and head north (back towards the water) on Rue Ferou. In just a few minutes you'll be at Saint-Sulpice church.

Famous for its appearance in The Da Vinci Code, Saint-Sulpice was a legend long before Hollywood came calling. It is the second largest church in Paris after Notre Dame and murals by Eugène Delacroix adorne its Chapel of the Holy Angels (first side-chapel on the right).  If you're so lucky to be visiting after Sunday Mass (around 12:00 PM), there may well be a short public concert featuring the church's renowned organ and equally respected organists. Sunday afternoons often feature free guided tours (seefull details here) for those lucky enough to have a little extra time.

On the opposite side of the church courtyard, turn right onto Rue Saint-Sulpice and then left onto Rue de Seine. You'll be crossing Boul St-Germaine and, should you feel so inclined, you could head left about two blocks and encounter legendary Les Deux Magots (famous for its impecable literary pedegree. Not so famous for low prices or outstanding food). But with our eye on the clock, we'll continue straight on to 54 Rue de Seine, home of Cosi, my favourite sandwich shop in Paris. A simple (yet divine) sandwich here costs just under 7 Euros, while the fanciest sandwich in combination with a drink and dessert is only 13 Euros. It's easily one of the best deals in town, which is exactly why I've been visiting for more than twenty years now.

Continue up the road from Cosi and turn left on Rue Jacob. At the corner of rue Bonapart, you'll find a branch of Laudree, arguably the most famous macaron shop in Paris. Obviously, stopping in here for a treat is a priority. 

Carry on up Rue Bonapart to the water and make a quick right to Pont des Arts pedestrian bridge. We'll be crossing this bridge to check out what's on the other side: The Louvre.

​Exploring (and eating) time: 30 minutes

Paris layover stop five: Musee de Louvre and a very special bakery

Crossing over the Pont des Arts pedestrian bridge, we find ourselves towards the back of the Louvre complex. This is by design. It's a little less crazy here and you can approach the courtyard and the famous glass pyramid from a different point of view, one that most tourists don't take. Even if you don't have time to go into the museum (or do you... we'll get to that in a moment...) this is an incredible place to explore. 

By all means, take the time to explore the adjacent Jardin des Tuileries to the west of the Louvre but I personally would spend my time heading to my favourite bakery in the world. Boulangerie Pâtisserie Artisanale is located at 9-11 Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau, just a few minutes northeast of the Louvre. Its neighbour is a dive bar that serves cheap beer and working class Parisian fare and there's a similarly humble restaurant across the street dishing out Hong Kong cuisine. But in case you forget that you're in the fanciest part of Paris, know that Christian Louboutin is just a few steps up the street.

Update! My beloved Boulangerie Pâtisserie Artisanale has now evolved into Tartine & Co. They taste and look pretty much how I remember them from the past 20 years but I notice there are some signs advertising that they're now going to start offering take out soup as well. While a part of me wishes that my favourite bakery would remain unchanged, forever, I am really happy that you'll be able to get a hot hearty lunch here and not just baked goods.

Exploring time: 20 minutes

Paris in a day: Spending more time

I said three hours at the begining but how close was I? According to Google maps, the total walking time (without stops) is 58 minutes. Let's call it an even 60, shall we?

The total exploring time, based on the suggeted estimates on each section above, is 1 hour and 45 minutes.  We're going to save 15 minutes to let you walk back to your transit stop at a leisurely pace. And that gives you 3 hours in Paris!

As always, it's all about being time savvy with your transportation and this tour finishes just a short walk from the Chatelet les Halles metro stop, which serves the RER blue line to take you directly back to Charles de Gaulle airport. The walk between the bakery and Chatelet les Halles is only 8 minutes but this is a big station and you might need to do some further walking once you go underground. (Update: OH MY GOD is this ever a huge station!? I recently did this entire itinerary in reverse, which means I started with Chatelet and I thought I would never get out. I wish I had looked at this handy site detailing what exits correspond to which street in Paris.)

​If you do find yourself with some extra time, wander a few minutes over to  La Droguerie (11 Rue de Jour). This cute shop is like a cross between an old fashioned haberdashery and a crafter's paradise.

This is one heck of a walk and a whirlwind tour. Is it the best way to see Paris? Probably not. Is it a great way to launch a day in Paris or a Paris layover or perhaps even an excellent orientation walk to shake off jetlag? Definitely. 

And if you have more than an hour, there is even more that you can do.

Four hour Paris layover

If you have a four hour layover, I'd suggest following the three hour tour and then doing one of the following:

Option 1: Add more leisure and more sites. Take 15 minutes of your bonus time "budget" and use it to see the three hour sites at a slightly more relaxed pace. Perhaps it can break down as an extra five minutes each at Shakespeare and Company, the Luxembourg garden, and Saint-Sulpice.

Take an additional 30 minutes to explore Ile Saint-Louis. After looking around Notre Dame, head to the back of the church (pausing to visit the moving Memorial des Martyrs de la Deportation). Walk across the bridge to check out Ile Saint-Louis, which has exceptional little stores specializing in all kinds of random things (like Laguiole, which sells handcrafted knives). Stop by Berthillon for an ice cream (perhaps the very best in Paris). Finally, cross back to the left bank on Pont de la Tournelle and walk west along Quai de la Tournelle to visit some of the riverside vendors of antique books and prints before rejoining the route at Shakespeare and Company. 

Last but not least, consider shaving ten minutes from your original three hour tour by skipping Laudree and instead use that time, plus your remaining 15 minutes of this bonus hour, to visit Angelina. Across from the Louvre on Rue de Rivoli, this cafe makes the finest hot chocolate in Paris. While you can't stay long, use this 25 minutes to savor the molten chocolate and watch the world go by. 

Option 2: Forget all that complicated breakdowns of time here and time there. Stick to the three hour plan and add in a one hour visit to a small museum. True, one hour isn't exactly ample time for a museum of any size but it's not too bad. My suggestion: See tapestries from the Middle Ages at Musee du Cluny.

Five hour Paris layover

If you have five hours to explore Paris, I'd suggest you stick to the three hour tour and either do both of the options suggestion in the four hour tour (in other words, take an hour to visit a small museum AND take an hour to expand your walk and make it more leisurely.)

Alternatively, use this time to spend two hours at either the Louvre or the Musee d'Orsay. I love them both and I don't think you could go wrong with either. With two hours on the line, I'd say that the Louvre is best for travellers who like to plan and plot out everything they want to see but d'Orsay is best for those who just want to wander and soak it all in. But a word to the wise. Under no circumstances are you to visit either without advanced tickets or a city pass that includes fast-track museum admission.

Update! I did exactly this during my October 2021 visit to Paris and I visited the Louvre for exactly two hours. While goodness knows you can't see everything, you can see A LOT. This list presents a good top five to start with.  And I have an excellent tip to share about seeing the Mona Lisa. The room where this painting is displayed looks crowded and chaotic but it's actually quite organized. What you're seeing is a giant "S" shaped line controlled by the staff so everyone can have some time at the painting on their own. But you don't need to stand in this line to get a good view! Go to the side of the line, close to where people would exit after seeing the painting up close, and you'll get a really good view without much chaos.

Six hour Paris layover

You know the drill: Let's start with the basic three hour tour. From there you could have a leisurely three hour visit to a major museum like the Louvre or the Musee d'Orsay. Or you could do one of the things from the four hour tour (like visting a small museum or taking an expanded, more relaxed walk) and then adding on a two hour big museum visit like described above.

But if museums aren't really your thing, I have another suggestion. You could use these bonus three hours to do something outside the tight travel circle we've been working with so far. For instance, you could head up to the neighbourhood of Montmatre and explore. You could go to the Eiffel Tower and give it a climb. Or you could take a boat tour of the Seine.

These tourist-oriented boat tours usually last an hour to two hours and, while a bit cheesy, they're absolutely stunning at dusk. Depending on the exact tour and itinerary, you could have enough time left to add one more mini-activity, like a trip to Angelina's for hot chocolate - or maybe a wine bar to toast to an incredible trip to Paris!

Resources to make the most of a day in Paris

Want to try something different? Consider bike tours of Paris or food tours of Paris.

Staying for more than a day or visiting a lot of museums? A pass will save you money and, more importantly, save you hours of line waiting.

​The Paris Pass (comprehensive sightseeing pas
Paris Sightseeing Pass (often described as the best value pass)
Go Paris Pass (Good for two day visits)
Paris Museum Pass (Great for musuems but that's it)

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If you enjoyed this piece, you'll also like:

Secrets Of The Louvre For The Savvy Traveller
Touring Paris By Bike
Paris: Day 2&3 of Our Round The World Trip