All roads really DO lead to - and from- Rome. If you're interested in biking the Appian Way in Rome, this post is for you.
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It was a good thing that he got an improved bike, as good gear counts for a lot here. The chariot wheel ruts, so beguiling when we first saw them, were a bit of an nightmare when it came to cycling. And the ancient paving stones, still serving the city after two thousand years, were heaved and uneven in several spots. Like everyone else, we soon took to the makeshift dirt path alongside the Appian Way for a slightly improved ride.
However, I was a bit hesitant to explore very far. Sometimes I couldn't determine if I was looking at the entrance to a private estate or a public road. Looking back, I should have been bold and just went for it. What would Caesar or St Peter think of my timid heart?
It was unbelievable that these remarkable treasures were not safeguarded in a museum but were instead just lounging around, waiting for a visiting hand to trace their letters and lean against their base.
The park surrounding the Appian Way is home to several churches, catacombs, tombs, and monuments. While we didn't get to most of them, we were able to take in a few and they were fascinating. We didn't explore as expansively as other travelers might but we did enjoy every moment of it.
The second is that I woke up that morning with a generous assortment of bed bug bites. The previously undetected bites, acquired days earlier, suddenly erupted into vicious welts. I was thrilled to be exploring Rome, but boy was I uncomfortable! Sweaty skin and bed bug bites do not mix.
But even though the day and I were not optimal, the excursion was worth it. I absolutely would return to retrace my steps and hopefully go even further afield.
(In Rome, we stayed at The Beehive and loved it. No bed bugs there! You can read reviews on Trip Advisor and Expedia.)
For reasons that seem a bit silly when I write them down here, it somehow felt foolhardy, even risky, to discover a city in reverse order, tackling Rome from the outside and working my way in. How could I possibly take a metro, and then a bus, and then walk with only vague directions to a no-name bike stand when I still didn't know my Colosseum from my Spanish Steps? And (it's actually embarrassing to admit this) I had never once sought out bike rentals on any other trip. Ever! I had borrowed bikes from hotels, I had been a part of organized bike tours, but I had never gone out of my way to rent them independently, for no other reason than just to explore. Given my inherently wimpy nature, could I really turn my travel plans upside down AND take on a travel "first", no matter how tame, without stressing out? Just the thought of it would bring out my anti-adventurist whimpers. But that was before Rome.
As I look back upon the trip, it seems especially fitting that I became acquainted with Rome the same way that over two thousand years worth of explorers did, sharing an ancient road and a sense of adventure and even trepidation with those who went before me. I loved our time exploring the Appian Way (even with all the itching) and I'm so glad we mixed up our time honored travel style and broke our usual mold to try something new.
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- Looking to explore the Appian Way on your next trip to Rome? This is a handy guide and map. If you're going there by public transportation, like we did, this article outlines your different options.
- Bike rentals were about 3 Euros an hour or 15 for the day - cash only. Do a thorough test ride before heading out. Be resigned to walking your bike for several portions of the road. And save a few Euros for cold drinks from the nearby cafe!
- The Appian Way is closed to vehicular traffic on Sundays - but some of the attractions are closed then as well. If there's a particular site that's very important to you, confirm and re-confirm the hours of operation.
- Should this post inspire you to pick up some travel sized bed bug spray, EcoRaider is our preferred brand. Let's just say I learned this lesson the hard way!
Looking for more inspiration for your trip to Rome? These article will help:
Rome as a Lasagna: Touring the City's Many Layers.
Roman Recipes: Cooking and Life Lessons from Nonna.
7 Tips To Get The Most From Your Vatican City Tour
Our Ultimate Guide To Rome's Pantheon
Traveling to nearby Orvieto?
Orvieto Food, Wine, and Family
Buying Orvieto Pottery
I love doing something different when visiting a city, so this is definitely on my list when we go back to Rome. We love cycling, and even despite the bumpy old road, this is something we'd be interested in doing. Isn't it wonderful how the old remnants are just lying around!
I couldn't believe how many of them were just lying around.
It's a great place to get to know the city.
That is indeed a unique way to explore Rome.... from outside to inside. Rome is full of Unesco HS I had a tough time there which to visit and which to skip. And I walked most of the place not bike. May be biking would have been a better option. Too bad about the bedbugs.
You're so right about having to pick and choose - it's like every street is filled with legends.
I’ve been to Rome and loved it but I can’t remember if we spent time on Appian Way – I think I would have remembered it if I had – crazy to think of the road having chariot ruts! Definitely doesn’t get more ancient Rome than that!!I guess bike rental is a good enough next best to a chariot for these days :D
Incredible that there’s so much history just lying around, as you said, not protected by a museum – that’s the sort of authentic experience I would love to have. It sounds quite fascinating to have so many churches, catacombs, tombs, and monuments along the way. Thanks for sharing your day :)
You definitely would have remembered being on the Appian Way - there's nothing else quite like it.
Biking the Appian Way sounds like my kind of fun! I love exploring ancient ruins, and always find it incredible to get up and close with history in that way. Don't think I would opt for the chariot either though ;) Pinning this for when we plan a trip to Rome!
Hope you get to Rome soon!
I've been training myself to be more confident with my biking skills agian. I mean, I do know how but I haven't done so in a while. I feel I get distracted a lot and I'm not to comforable with my cycling skill yet but nonetheless I find it a n interesting way to go around a city.
I should point out that, if you had sturdy running shoes on, traveling the Appian Way by foot might be the easier and quicker way to explore. So long as you're nimble on cobblestones!
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