How To See Ancient Hawaiian Petroglyphs in Volcanoes National Park

Ancient Hawaiian petroglyphs are more accessible than you might think at the Big Island's Volcanoes National Park. This is what it was like hiking to see the Pu'u Loa site.

Note: My trip was partially sponsored by Go Hawaii. All research, writing, and opinions are my own. This trip may contained affiliate links, which means if you make a purchase, this blog may receive a small commission. 

Exploring Hawaiian petroglphys means appreciating remarkable sites like this.

You may have come to Volcanoes National Park to satisfy the child within, to hunt down fiery lava and stalk ancient eruptions. But it’s your inner artist who will be squealing with glee if you’re fortunate enough to explore the legendary ancient Hawaiian petroglyphs at the Pu’u Loa site.
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Roughly translated as “the hill of long life”, the archaeological site of Pu’u Loa contains over 23,000 petroglyph images, carved into lava bedrock and dating back centuries. With a keen eye, you’ll see a feathery cape, the billowing sail of a canoe, and the squiggly flash of a lizard.  But even if your imagination is a bit rusty, you’ll have no problem deciphering many human forms. And there’s no way you can miss the thousands of ‘dimples’, little cups carved into the rock, which served as repositories for umbilical cords. With the promise of blessings and a long life for a new baby, it’s easy to see why ancient Hawaii families considered the Pu’u Loa such a precious spot.

Not all of the site's Hawaiian petroglyphs have such a strong spiritual connection. Some were purely practical, created as a kind of primitive travel log to record journeys and activities and mark boundaries. To stand among the petroglyphs of Pu’u Loa is to feel like you’re perusing an ancient diary and day planner at all once, getting a privileged insight into both the most sacred and the most prosaic details of someone’s life.
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And the most incredible thing of all about Pu’u Loa? Its accessibility. You don’t have descend into a deep, narrow crevice or squeeze into a cave at low tide to see these Hawaiian petroglyphs. It’s all there for you at the end of 0.7 mile (1.1km) walk off of Volcanoes National Park’s Chain of Craters Road. The 1.4 mile (2.25km) round trip is a moderate hike; the primary challenge being the uneven footing of the lava bedrock. But when we attempted it for ourselves, we found that a sturdy pair of sneakers and a willingness to go slow were sufficient to enjoy a safe and steady walk. (The uneven bedrock does provide one unexpected benefit, however. When I found myself warming up in the sun and in need of some lighter layers, I found easy cover for my impromptu quick-change act behind some rocks!)

The sight of a small circular boardwalk lets you know you’ve arrived. It’s the perfect way to gain a little bit of height to properly see and appreciate the petroglyphs (all while providing them with much needed protection – remember, these ancient carvings are fragile and should never be touched). One of my favourite moments was to simply sit on the boardwalk, take a breather, and gaze around in silence. There wasn’t a sound to be heard save for the crashing waves in the far off distance. 
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What made the native Hawaiians seek out this unforgiving, isolated terrain all those years ago? Was there a sacred energy that drew them in? Did Pu’u Loa serve as a kind of ancient rest point, with no journey complete unless you stopped here? There’s an air of mystery about the petroglyphs and the people who created them. They left us so many tantalizing clues but there are still so many unanswered questions.

While the inner artist in me was filled with excitement and anticipation when we started the hike, my return journey was spent in contemplation. I was filled with a new found respect and admiration for these long lost carvers, of the journeys they bravely undertook, for their love of family and celebration of life, for their language and artistic skills. From the harsh and unforgiving lava fields they were able to create something beautiful and unforgettable, making this hike one that is truly about the journey and not the destination. 

If you want to experience Pu’u Loa for yourself, you’ll find the trial clearly marked, with a small parking area, off Chain of Craters Road (a main route within Volcanoes National Park). Happy hiking is safe hiking and, even for short distances like this, you should wear layered clothing, bring snacks and sunscreen, and carry plenty of water. And remember the cardinal rule of nature: take nothing but photographs, leave nothing but foot prints.
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