How To See Baines' Baobabs In Botswana

16/3/2023

These famous trees in Northern Botswana were first captured by painter Thomas Baines. Here's how you can see them for yourself.

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Ryan and Vanessa pose for a selfie with Baobabs in the background surrounded by arid soil.

Grabbing the obligatory selfie in front of Baines' Baobabs in Botswana.

Twenty some years ago, National Geographic devoted a cover story to the topic of Africa and, in doing so, they did something unusual. They declined to use a cover image, rationalizing that there was no one symbol or picture that could encompass the continent.

If they had asked me, I would have made my case for the baobab tree. True, they don’t grow everywhere in Africa but they are an icon of the continent. Residents love them for their fruit, shade, and fibres, as do animals. Visitors adore these funny looking plants that have the appearance of being stuck in the ground upside down. They’re huge, imposing, aloof and yet there’s something about the baobab that’s decidedly homey. Perhaps this is why the Baines' Baobabs in Botswana are so popular.

The Baine’s Baobabs are named for British artist Thomas Baines. Baines wasn’t just a painter. He was also an explorer and an active participant on many of the earliest European expeditions to Africa. As such, he both contributed to and memorialized early colonialism. His work fed a mania for “exotic” images of the continent and his painting of seven baobabs in northern Botswana certainly fit the bill. They’re a little weird, a little other-wordly, and utterly captivating.

Located in northern Botswana in Nxai Pan National Park, the group of trees that Baines immortalized are estimated to be over 1,500 years old. Also know as "The Sleeping Sisters" (as one tree is growing sideways) they’re considered to be some of the tallest in the area, hitting about 20 feet in height. Thanks to Baines’ legacy and the trees' own magnificence, they’re a popular tourist attraction and Ryan and I were able to see them for ourselves during our camping safari. Here’s how you can do the same.

Time your visit with care (if you can)

Vertical shot showing a long line of Baobab trees on dry soil

Large baobab with an overland tour jeep parked next to it.

In an ideal world, you’d visit Baines’ Baobabs during the dry season (which runs from May to October). You’ll benefit from slightly cooler temperatures and clear skies, as well as dramatic landscapes, with the trees providing a sharp contrast to the stark, dry landscape. Come rainy season, you’ll have mud underfoot and lush foliage on the trees (which is gorgeous in its own right but not ideal for seeing the baobab’s iconic shape).

We visited at the end of October and it was indeed dry and stark. While I loved seeing the baobabs in all their glory, parts of the drive were bleak thanks to the arid landscape.

Sunrise and sunset are exceptional times to see the trees for the gorgeous light alone but you’ll also enjoy cooler temperatures, small crowds, and maybe even some wildlife spotting. Our visit was timed for lunch and it was indeed warm and devoid of animals – thankfully other tour groups were scarce as well.

When possible, join in a tour

The hood of a cream coloured Land Rover is covered with a blue cloth and Tupperware containers filled with salads

Setting out lunch on our typical "table" - the hood of our Land Rover.

Posing with one of our tour mates, Sara Jane.

If you’re overlanding in southern Africa, you’ll have no problem swinging by to see the trees. They’re located about three hours east of Maun and are a convenient stop if you’re on route to Francistown or Victoria Falls.

If you’re spending less time in the area and want to see them in conjunction with a safari, consider choosing an itinerary that includes the trees and the nearby salt pans. You might also find a day trip through a provider in Maun. If you’re adventurous you could rent a 4x4 and possibly hire a private guide to make a day trip of it but it’s probably just as economical to see them as part of a group (and, to be frank, I’m not sure I’d want the responsibility of a vehicle on this sandy and uneven terrain).

Leave no trace

Vanessa posting next to a tree with graffiti carved in the trunk

Unfortunately, while baobabs look invincible, they are just as susceptible to climate change and human interference as any other plant. Don’t carve your name into their bark, pack out all your garbage, and leave the fallen fruit for the animals.

It’s worth noting that there are no washroom facilities here. With that in mind, please go before you, well, go! If you have to use the washroom in the wild, this article has some helpful tips and important environmental information.

Bring the essentials

Vanessa poses next to the tour vehicles.

Vanessa has windblown hair in the tour vehicle

Ryan and Vanessa pose with cups of coffee.

As with any foray into nature, bring along your sunscreen, bug spray, bottled water, and snacks. Long, loose, light clothing is more comfortable than shorts and tank tops and a shady hat is a good idea. If you have long hair, you’ll want to tie it back as the drive to and from the trees has little protection and a lot of wind. In fact, we got chilly at times so grabbing a sweater or scarf for your day pack is a smart plan, especially if you’re going in the early morning or late evening. (As you can see from the photo above, I did a good job about wearing my scarf and a very poor job of tying back my hair!)

Want a latte for the road? Well, you are in luck! YES you can get a delicious latte, muffin, Americano, or breakfast sandwich for your trip. The Wax Apple in Maun is a phenomenally delicious stop and you can read about why I loved it so much here.

Dare I say it... get ready to feel a bit let down

Ryan grabs a selfie in front the Baobab trees.

I LOVE baobab trees. They have been like my own personal good luck charm in my travels and, whenever a safari guide asks the group what animals they’re hoping to see, I always respond with a request for trees. As such, I can attest to the fact that Baines’ Baobabs are indeed a splendid representative of their species. But as someone who has seen A LOT of baobabs over the years, they didn’t exactly light my heart on fire.

I think to fully appreciate them you have to remember what a sensation their image caused more than 150 years ago. African Insider has a piece called What’s So Special About Baines Baobabs Anyway that makes the case that the surrounding salt flats are arguably the most interesting thing about the region. They also point out that you’re not just seeing trees. You’re on a pilgrimage to follow in the footsteps of generations of travelers. You’re standing on the same soil, looking at the same vistas as some of history’s most influential explorers (and all the good and bad that comes with that exploration.) It’s about much more than the trees. If you can arrange a visit to Baines’ Baobabs, I would highly encourage you to do so. But if your schedule is packed and your time is limited, you can see these incredible trees all over southern Africa and ponder their legacy no matter where you are.

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