These Montana Cliffs Are Home To One Of The World’s Rarest Roses

In Western Montana's "Gates of the Mountains" wilderness area, a rare rose keeps company with bats, birds, and legends.

My tours, meals, drinks, and accommodations were part of a press trip in conjunction with the TBEX conference. ​This post contains affiliate links, which means if you make a purchase, we may be paid a small commission.

Keeping our eyes peeled for Kelseya Uniflora sightings along the shore!

At first glance, Kelseya Uniflora doesn’t look like much to get excited about, but botanists know better. These petite, low-lying pink and white blossoms don’t look anything like the classic roses you’d find at a flower shop. They’re quite the opposite, as their limited territory makes them one of the world’s rarest members of the Rosaceae (rose) family.

Finding them in nature is no easy task. The Kelseya Uniflora is fond of the volcanic and limestone cliffs of Wyoming, Montana, and Idaho. Using the fine hairs on the underside of their branches, these tenacious little blooms can gain a foothold in small cracks on high cliffs. These rocks, which are so inhospitable to other plants, are Kelseya Uniflora’s ideal habitat. The tiny hairs gripping the rocks can also draw up moisture from small crevices. Once established, their semi-evergreen foliage forms mats of silvery green leaves that look like moss to novice horticulturists, such as myself. But up close, intricate leaf patterns are visible and the delicate tiny bright pink and white blossoms are lovely – that is, if you can find them.

Kelseya Uniflora photo credit: CalPhotos under Creative Commons licensing.

Kelseya Uniflora photo credit: North America Rock Garden Society under Creative Commons licensing.

​Between their fondness for inhospitable terrain and their extremely limited range, seeing the Kelseya Uniflora during the peak of their mid-summer bloom takes some planning. I glided into western Montana’s Gates of the Mountains Wilderness area on a boat ride along the Missouri River to see the Kelseya for myself and discover everything this beautiful region has to offer.

Exploring Western Montana’s Gates of the Mountains Wilderness Area

Gates of the Mountains Wilderness area has been managed by the Helena Lewis and Clark National Forest since 1964. As with all designated Wilderness areas in the United States, it doesn’t allow for motorized vehicles, though camping and fishing are permitted in designated areas with authorization. This makes the protected area extra quiet. With 53 miles of hiking trails in the area, hiking, picnicking, birdwatching – and searching for Kelseya Uniflora - are popular activities. One of the most popular spots for outdoor enthusiasts to relax and recharge is the Meriwether picnic site, however, as there are no on-the-ground amenities and services, hikers should bring ample water and supplies for their adventures. 

Because motorized vehicles are not permitted in the wilderness area, boats are the best way to get around. One outfitter, Gates of the Mountains, Inc., which is not affiliated with the National Forest Service, operates a popular boat tour along the Missouri River. It’s perfect for exploring the area and catching a glimpse of Kelseya Uniflora from the water.

What To Expect On The Gates of the Mountains Boat Tour

The Gates of the Mountains boat tour is headquartered 20 minutes north of Montana’s capital, Helena, making this excursion the ideal Helena day trip. It’s also around halfway between Yellowstone National Park and Glacier National Park. If you’re road-tripping between these national parks, this would be a fantastic stop to relax mid-trip.  

Tickets for the two-hour boat tour are $16 and should be booked online in advance to avoid disappointment. The boat tours are also accessible to wheelchair users and have both covered and open-air sections, so that you’ll never be out of luck should the weather turn. For a comfortable experience, remember to bring sunscreen, a hat, sunglasses, and a bottle of water.

I sat up front, next to the tour guide, so I had a great view and could easily hear his humorous, informative commentary but I’ve also read online reviews that mention the sound quality isn’t the best towards the back of the boat.

Know Before You Go: Where To Eat Nearby

There are picnic facilities at Gates of the Mountains tour headquarters and visitors are welcome to bring their own food to enjoy a picnic on the shore. There is a small snack bar onsite which sells cold drinks, snacks, huckleberry ice cream (a Montana classic) and basic breakfast and lunch items, such as sandwiches, that guests can bring onboard. 

For the most delicious experience, visit on a Friday night. From mid-July to mid-August, Gates of the Mountains offers guests a dinner cruise with a twist. A casual buffet-style dinner happens onshore. Catered by Chili O’Brien’s, there’s plenty of choice for main courses, including grilled Montana flank steak, garlic chicken Parmesan, or a baked stuffed portabella cap, plus ample sides including salad, rolls, vegetables, roasted potatoes, and dessert. Guests then embark on a two-hour after-dinner cruise and enjoy the sunset from the water. As with all Gates of the Mountains’ activities, you should make advance reservations for the $54 per person dinner cruise.

Gates of the Mountains’ History

This section of the Missouri River is so pristine and seemingly untouched that guests would be forgiven for thinking that they’re the first to discover a particular cave, crevice, or craggy rock. There is a true sense of astonishment every time the boat rounds a curve. In reality, humans have known this area intimately for thousands of years, as can be seen by the intricate Native American pictographs painted on the shore near the Mann Gulch. On several occasions, the tour operator brought us close enough to the shore to see the pictographs and patches of Kelseya Uniflora.  

The Gates of the Mountains’ section of the Missouri River was named by Meriwether Lewis – yes, that Lewis of the famed Lewis and Clark expedition. As Lewis and his men explored the area in the early 19th century, it felt as though the 1200-foot high limestone cliffs were closing in on them. As they made their way through the river’s twists and turns, it appeared as though the cliffs were coming together to block their passage, only to open like large gates as the boat rounded a curve. Perhaps not surprisingly, Lewis later wrote in his journal: “from the singular appeaerance (sic) of this place I called it the gates of the rocky mountains.” 

Much of the region remains unchanged since Lewis’s expedition, with one notable exception. The area known as Mann Gulch still bears the scars of a massive forest fire in 1949. While the tragic Mann Gulch Fire saw 13 wildland firefighters, also known as smokejumpers, perish, it also resulted in an overhaul of how the United States Forest Service fights fires. Our guide shared his extensive knowledge about how the forest is experiencing regrowth decades later.

If you’d like to learn more about the smokejumpers, the definitive tale of this tragedy was written by Montana resident Norman Maclean in his book “Young Men on Fire”. You can purchase it at Chapters in Canada or through Bookshop.org in the United States. 

Kelseya Uniflora Isn’t The Only Thing To Look For

While you can see Kelseya Uniflora year-round, its blooms are at their peak in the summer time – though you may have luck seeing them in late spring and early fall as well. They are just one form of unique life in the area. Whether you’re hiking or boating, keep an eye out for bighorn sheep, mountain goats, deer, squirrels, and even mountain goats or black bears. Closer to the water's edge, lucky explorers might spot ermine, beaver, and otters. Bird watchers will want to bring along their binoculars to catch a glimpse of Gates of the Mountains’ 120 plus bird species. Osprey, vultures, and falcons are commonly seen, with frequent bald eagle sightings too. 

Nature lovers will want to take note that Gates of the Mountains is home to the largest population of bats in Montana. Scientists have documented 12 species while conducting extensive research into the bats’ calls and habitat. Twice a year in August, Gates of the Mountains offers a special night boat tour with wildlife biologists from Montana Fish Wildlife and Parks. Tickets for these tours sell out early, so be sure to book them well ahead of time. 

However, even if you don’t see many animals or patches of Kelseya Uniflora, I’d still heartily recommend the Gates of the Mountains boat tour, as you’ll rarely have the opportunity to see such gorgeous scenery within such a peaceful environment. Between the sparkling water, the towering, craggy cliffs, the verdant forest, and the shore-side picnic areas, I can’t imagine that there is anyone who would not be moved by this beautiful location. 

And if you don’t manage to “see” the optical illusion of the gates opening up as the boat slides around the corner; don’t worry, I didn’t “see” them either! Thankfully, Kelseya Uniflora is almost unmissable. While Montana is famous for its beautiful lakes, grasslands, and mountains, it was this tiny, tenacious flower that impressed me the most. They’re at the very heart of Montana, surrounded by the state’s most impressive scenery and important  history. They serve as a strong reminder that it’s always worthwhile to explore just a little bit further as you’ll never know what you may find. 

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