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Tales From The Anti-Adventurist: Vanessa Visits The Athens Meat MarketĀ 

26/10/2014

 

A trip to Varvakios is not for the faint of heart! But this is the best market in Athens - you don't want to miss it.

Varvakios Athens Meat Market Fish Market Culinary Backstreet Tour Greece Butchers
Animals, whole and in part, at Varvakios.
Varvakios Athens Meat Market Fish Market Culinary Backstreet Tour Greece Butchers
See that fish leaning up against the left wall? He's staring at me!
An old man is sprinkling salt on his cold, hard boiled eggs. A very large, very dead fish of unknown origin is staring at me with its milky, unfocused eyes. In fact, eyes are all around me - teeth, noses, tongues, and tails are too. A tiny plate of bread, olives, pickled hot peppers, and grilled meats are in front of me - strong foods, says the chef, as I need something to regain my strength. For I'm at the Varvakios, otherwise known as the Athens Meat Market, and I just caused a scene. 
Despite my notorious motion sickness, I wouldn't normally consider myself a queasy individual. But as I passed row after row of animals, some emancipated from their skins, others not so much, with dozens of eyes and hundreds of teeth flashing at me, my stomach started doing back flips. 

I'm a somewhat failed vegetarian, a girl who went without eating meat all throughout my teenage and college years, and even today I rarely venture beyond a solidly cooked chicken breast when it comes to animal protein. Varvakios may be a well lit, well ventilated market but when the smell of blood and flesh hit me at the same time as I saw a bag of skinned, decapitated sheep heads, I very nearly went from spectator to main attraction!
I wasn't in Varvakios by chance. I was a participant in an all day food walk of the city with Culinary Backstreets Athens, an incredible adventure that included phenomenal feta and yogurt, hidden donut shops and gelato windows, and sizzling dinners of small fry fish, wild mountain herbs, and creamy courgette fritters. This was one adventure I was mastering until I stumbled upon the sack o' sheep skulls! 

Fortunately, our amazing guide Despina recognized that my gag reflex was going in over drive. She deftly guided me over to our next stop, a tiny hole-in-the-wall meze stand adjacent to the fish market. I like to blend in like a local as much as possible when I travel but suddenly I couldn't be more conspicuous! 
Varvakios Athens Meat Market Fish Market Culinary Backstreet Tour Greece Butchers
Despina and the cafe staff discuss my dilemma!
I'm not exactly sure what Despina said to the meze stand owner, but within seconds elderly men where vacating their stools and plates of food and glasses of ice water were being pushed in my direction with a friendly, sympathetic smile. I contorted my face into what I hope passed for the mask of world weary travel writer instead of what I actually was - a wimpy, weak stomached, queasy anti-adventurist who was entirely out of their element! 

I took a few calming breaths and the salty, slimy stench of fish wafted by. For once I was grateful for the heavy cigarette smoke around me which filtered the air. I wrote diligently in my notebook and nibbled on my strength-inducing meze, doing my best to blend into a scene where I clearly stood out like a sore thumb. 
Varvakios Athens Meat Market Fish Market Culinary Backstreet Tour Greece Butchers
Apparently this is exactly the food you need to eat to regain your strength after nearly throwing up in public!
My disastrous anti-adventure in Varvakios reminded me of an old travel tip I read years and years ago. You should always travel with a tiny tube of Vicks vapor rub or a similarly strong smelling menthol product to mask strong and unpleasant orders. I always though that was a tip for people heading to rural or developing countries but even in central Athens it would have come in handy! 

Everyone else on my tour loved their time in the meat market and I absolutely loved the tour as a whole. I would heartily encourage anyone visiting Athens to give it a try. While I failed at meat marketing, I did succeed in getting a great story and having a few minutes of feeling like an intrepid explorer and that's worth all the indignity in the world!

Think you're tougher than me and want to check out Varvakios for yourself? Or are you on a quest to visit my meze stand rescuers? This isn't the kind of place you stumble upon accidentally, so I'm including a map to help you on your own adventures! 
Directions Varvakios Athens Market
Varvakios Meat Market Athens Directions
Read some more of Vanessa's travel antics!
Snowshoeing in Haliburton
The World's Tallest Inclined Tower
When Tuscany Belonged To The Etruscans
Jo link
29/10/2014 04:24:59 pm

Ha, ha, long live the anti-adventurist! Just wait till you read my take on this saga!

It was a great day and I can't wait to read your take on the rest of the tour!

Vanessa
30/10/2014 10:02:53 pm

Ha ha ha!! I kept your name out of it, otherwise I'd have to use the phrase "my blood thirsty friend Jo from Frugal First Class Travel...."

Anna link
3/11/2014 05:06:35 pm

I haven't been here but I did briskly walk through the Athen fish market! bleh!!

Vanessa
8/11/2014 10:26:16 am

Bleh indeed! I am clearly not a girl who can handle strong travel smells!

jenny@atasteoftravel link
16/11/2014 09:27:01 pm

The anti-adventurist strikes again! We had a great time looking at the blood, gore and guts in the market whilst you were sitting down on the job! A great write up Vanessa of a fun day!

Vanessa
20/11/2014 02:38:30 pm

It WAS a fun day - and I'm glad my little drama made it even more fun for everyone else! :-)

Mellissa Williams link
6/2/2016 11:13:59 am

My husband couldn't cope with this as he doesn't eat red meat or fish! I have to admit I think I would give this tour a miss lol

Vanessa
6/2/2016 11:18:34 am

He would clearly identify with my pain! Happily, I know the company can accommodate vegetarian and gluten free guests provided they have some advanced notice, so he might do very well on the farmers market/bakery version of things.

Nastia link
6/2/2016 11:59:55 am

Wow! That looks epic. What about the prices? Is it affordable for the budget traveler?

Vanessa
6/2/2016 12:22:40 pm

My tour was a gift from a friend so I had to look this up! Prices range from $125-$135 US for a full day tour, including all the food. I'd consider this a good deal as you get a full breakfast, a full lunch, tons of snacks in between, and a large late afternoon/early dinner. I think you get you money's worth for a day of food and a day of entertainment/tour guide services.

Lotte link
6/2/2016 12:10:22 pm

Haha very funny post. I am not sure if it would be my cup of tea either, not so much of a hero around dead animals... Interesting visit nevertheless!

Vanessa
6/2/2016 12:23:24 pm

Yep, caucuses are never fun. But the rest of the tour was amazing and delicious!

Stefan link
6/2/2016 06:06:31 pm

I love visiting my family in Athens and Thessaloniki if anything for the taverana atmospheres and the mezedes. Also to get lots of retsina - one of my favourite wines :)

Your post made me crack up laughing you little drama queen you! Super tip though (my other half is like you and having a shot of menthol to hand for market tours ain't such a bad idea!)

Vanessa
7/2/2016 09:36:04 am

I loved the market in Thessaloniki - but as soon as I got to the meat section I had to excuse myself. I didn't want a repeat of my Athenian performance!

melody pittman link
6/2/2016 11:05:45 pm

Vanessa, girl I feel your pain!! I was there in August on a food tour and thought I would just gag the entire time. Luckily we were in and through it within about 5 minutes but they were the longest of my life. Did you by chance see the nasty horse head on ice? That was horrid and like seeing a train wreck. Then the guys hacking away at the fish, filleting them, with bits of flesh flying everywhere was just enough to make me almost retreat. As my group walked through the aisle where that was going on, I'm sure it was hilarious watching me running, bobbing, weaving, and holding my belongings over my head. I would have just died if that fish flesh funk would have touched me/

Vanessa
7/2/2016 09:38:05 am

UGH. Thank goodness I did NOT see the horse head on ice! That would have been the end of me.

The environmentalist in me absolutely supports having all parts of the animal used and having nothing go to waste. And it really is a clean market, considering what they're working with. But I just CAN'T. NOPE. EWWWW!

Karilyn link
7/2/2016 11:20:11 am

I'm right there with you! I was just at a chinese restaurant with my son's class in LA this week and the look of the roasted duck (with head and eyes still attached) sent me straight to the bathroom to vomit! And yes, you are so right about the vicks! I always have a small tub with me when i travel. It's been the only way I could use the bathroom sometimes in India!

Vanessa
9/2/2016 07:32:30 pm

The world is filled with interesting sights and smells. Not all of them are pleasant. Vicks to the rescue!

Laura link
8/2/2016 12:45:29 am

That experience is definitely not for everyone. I'm not adverse to the sight, but the smell will definitely get you. Interesting nonetheless.

Vanessa
9/2/2016 07:33:16 pm

The smell was definitely the worst. And once you start getting worked up about it it's all over.

Joe Ankenbauer
8/2/2016 01:51:43 pm

What as tour! I would love to have tried this!

Vanessa
9/2/2016 07:33:42 pm

Meat market aside, I loved this tour.

Marissa_Travel Greece, Travel Europe link
5/2/2017 11:19:28 am

Oh, Vanessa! Yes, the central meat market is not for many. Lots of sounds, smells and carcasses about. Definitely can be a shock for folks. Not for everyone! Glad you survived ;)

Vanessa
5/2/2017 04:02:53 pm

The nearby fruit and vegetable market was much more my scene!


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