How To See Nova Scotia's "Drowned Forest" Beach

The Hawk on Cape Sable Island is Nova Scotia's southernmost point and home to its most unusual beach. 

I visited The Hawk as part of a press trip in conjunction with the TMAC conference.
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Stumps, seaweed, stones, sand, and seawater... That's The Hawk in a nutshell!

When you go as far south as you possibly can in Nova Scotia and the pavement ends, you’ll find yourself at a quiet beach known locally as “The Hawk.” This isn’t your average Maritime beach with soft sand and smooth pebbles. The shores here are filled with thousands of fossilized tree stumps.

The Hawk (most likely named after a schooner washed ashore in the 1800s) is located on Cape Sable Island. No, that’s not the same place as Sable Island, famously home to wild horses. Cape Sable Island sits between Yarmouth and Shelburne and is the southernmost part of the province. There isn’t much in the way of horses in the area, but birds are a different story. Bird watchers love this beach, and The Hawk is part of the Cape Sable Important Bird Area.

​However, the wildest thing of all are the fossilized tree stumps, part of a 1500-year-old drowned forest.

The visual effect of all these jagged tree stumps has been described as “creepy but beautiful,” and I have to say that I agree with this assessment. There’s something somewhat alien and unsettling about all these spiky stumps covered with slimy seaweed, some just lurking beneath the surface to reveal themselves at low tide. It’s also stunning, a kind of otherworldly beauty that no other beach in Canada can offer.

Thanks to blogger Kelly Anne MacKay of Maritime Mac, I learned this about how exactly this forest came to be submerged. Their site says: “Geomorphologist Ron Fry, BA of Saint Mary’s University, reached out to me to explain that sea levels have risen 14 feet in 250 years, submerging the forest and the sand has buried over the stumps. His information is based on carbon dating and information supplied by Dalhousie University.”

The otherworldly wood is just the beginning of what makes The Hawk such a fantastic place. There’s another stunning wood display to enjoy, which has nothing to do with the drowned forest. A recent archaeological dig revealed an unusual wooden structure which is most likely a wharf or fishing stage from the 17th or 18th century. It’s probably from the Acadian people, but the red roofing tiles found during the excavation could also suggest early visitors from the Iberian peninsula (Portuguese, Basque, or Spanish explorers).

I’m a bit disappointed that there wasn’t much evidence to support an early theory that it was part of a Viking fortification, but what can you do? No matter how you look at it, this area has experienced some incredible social and ecological changes.

Aside from the stumps, shells, and seaweed, there’s not much happening here, which is precisely why I liked it so much. It’s the perfect beach to make you feel like you’re alone, even when other people are around. During my group’s visit, we enjoyed a short conversation with a man who grew up in the region and went to The Hawk to write poetry, and I couldn’t think of a more fitting activity to enjoy along this shore. This is the perfect place to dream and write and spend a little time by yourself.

Practical information for visiting Cape Sable Island and The Hawk

Cape Sable Island is home to multiple beaches, hiking trails, and things to do.

The island is connected to the mainland via a causeway so you can drive over. There are no tolls and no need to get on a boat. Summer is the busiest season and there is a good selection of seasonal business which are open between May and October. If you're visiting in the low season, you should confirm opening hours in advance. You'll find all the essential amenities in Clark's Harbour: Basic groceries, gas station, bank, post office, library, and visitor information centre.

The Hawk beach is free, open to everyone, and there is free parking as well. There is a seasonal washroom but no other amenities. 

There are a wide variety of AirB&B rental properties on the island. While I haven't stayed there, I like the look of Mama's B&B By The Sea. It seems like a well appointed, comfortable local home. Breakfast is included and the rates start at $139 a night (a bargain compared to other rentals).

You'll want to plan to have at least one meal at The Salt Banker in Clark's Harbour. It's the first full-service, year-round eatery that Cape Sable Island has seen in decades. I was lucky to enjoy a behind-the-scenes tour when it was under construction in 2022 and saw just how much passion was going into the project. The restaurant offers steak, seafood, pasta, and a seasonal ice cream counter, with gluten-sensitive and vegetarian options. Aside from The Salt Banker, there is a small selection of seasonal take out counters on the island.


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