Adventures on Victoria Falls Bridge: Crossing the Zimbabwe Zambia Border

We hiked the Victoria Falls Bridge on foot FOUR times in order to cross the Zimbabwe Zambia border. Here's everything you need to know so you can do it too. 

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At 128 meters high, the Victoria Falls Bridge is a graceful, lacy arch, a throwback to the dreams of a Cape-to-Cairo rail link and what was once one of the most ambitious engineering feats in the world. Today, the beauty is still there, albeit faded and battered around the edges as commerce and trade push bygone nostalgia aside. Connecting Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe to Livingstone, Zambia, the bridge is a busy border post for commercial trade, as well as for travelers eager to explore both sides of Victoria Falls, the Zambezi River, and the Batoka Gorge.

It wasn't long into our trip to southern Africa before the Victoria Falls Bridge border crossing felt like our old stomping grounds. All told, we crossed the bridge four times! We entered Zimbabwe via Victoria Falls Airport and after three days, we walked across the bridge into Zambia to spend four days in Livingstone. Crossing number one!

We then walked back to Zimbabwe (number two!) for breakfast and to meet up with our Botswanan safari guide. After a week in Botswana, we returned to Zimbabwe. We had lunch post-safari in Victoria Falls before leaving Zimbabwe and walking across the bridge (number three!) for an extra three days in Livingstone.

​Finally, we crossed back to Zimbabwe a final time (number four!) for breakfast, some last minute shopping, and to catch our outbound flight. Whew!

Believe it or not, all travelers really need to explore the Victoria Falls Bridge and cross the Zimbabwe Zambia border is their passport and their own two feet. Having the right visa helps as well. For us, that was the Kaza Univisa, a relatively new option that allows  unlimited crossings between Zambia and Zimbabwe (as well as day trips into Botswana via Kazungula Borders) for 30 days. We purchased the visa twice as we departed the visa zone during our extended time in Botswana. This proved to be an economical and convenient choice for us, but other options - including single entry and multiple entry visas - might be better suited to your bridge adventures. 

Speaking of bridge adventures, here's all you need to know for your crossing, regardless of which country you start in. 

Crossing into Livingstone, Zambia, from Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. 

No matter which country is your starting point, the procedure is nearly identical. In Victoria Falls, you will see a customs and immigration building in the middle of all the action. You enter, have your passport inspected and stamped with a Zimbabwean exit stamp, and then you enter what the touts cheerfully proclaim "no man's land" - aka the walk to the start of the bridge and the bridge itself.

The touts are friendly and will happily keep chattering until you reach their small craft stand in the middle of the bridge - or until they see someone who looks like a more receptive customer. 

You won't be alone in your border crossing. In addition to the touts, there are always other tourists, local residents on foot and bike, and large transport trucks hauling commercial goods. Pre-crossing, don't be dissuaded by a long line of trucks backed up and waiting to cross. This commercial traffic has nothing to do with you! You'll likely hear how many of these trucks are transporting Zambian copper and how you can get your own handcrafted copper bracelet for a very good price. Ha! You can walk on either side of the bridge and carefully cross back and forth for photos - just keep your wits about you should one of the trucks finally start moving.

One thing I didn't look for - nor expect to find - on either side were washrooms or vendors selling drinks and snacks. In theory they might exist but you'll be much happier preparing as if they do not. 

When you finish crossing the bridge, the road continues uphill and curves to the left where you'll find the Zambian border post. The main building you have to enter is a little bit on your left. It always took us a second to pick it out and, each time, a group of folks hanging around just pointed over their shoulder as to where we should go.

As we had Kaza Univisas, it was simply a matter of standing in line for a few moments, having our passports stamped, and we were on our way. Welcome to Zambia! No one asked to see the original receipts for when we purchased our visas in Zimbabwe, nor our Yellow Fever vaccination certificates, though we had both on hand just in case.

There is even a currency exchange window in the same building as the border post. We bypassed this and we went to the building next door which was home to Golden Coin currency exchange and a tourist activity desk. While border currency exchange desks usually don't have the best rate going, here the prices were about the same as they were in town and everything was very professional. Rates were posted and we had to present identification and fill out some basic information. Rands, Euros, British Pounds, American Dollars, and Botswanan Pula were accepted and there was a slightly advantageous rate if you exchanged more than $20US into Zambian Kwacha. 

Eagle eyed taxi representatives approached as we were entering the border office, they waited anxiously for us to emerge, and followed us to the currency desk. It wasn't annoying or intrusive - more like they were keeping a keen eye on any potential competition they might have. Each time, we easily negotiated a rate of $10US (or 100 Kwacha) to be taken into our Livingstone hotel. Their initial offering of $20 a ride was quickly dropped when we raised an eyebrow and said "Nice try. We were here on Wednesday".  I suspect had we been a bit tougher and flashed $8 when business was slow, we might have saved a bit, especially since our hotel was on the near side of town. Likewise, had we been arriving after dark, a slightly higher rate on their end wouldn't be unreasonable. 

If you're a budget keener like us, you'll dislike the idea of spending money on taxis as a matter of principle. Alas, this is one time when you should. The center of Livingstone is 8+ km away and all that awaits you is a hot, dusty road with absolutely nothing to see - unless you are lucky/unlucky enough to come across some wild animals. We only saw elephants once on our many drives. It was wonderful experience but not one we needed to be on foot to enjoy. Plus, our Lonely Planet Zambia guidebook reports that there have been muggings along this stretch. Keep safe and spring for a taxi.

​If you're really watching your money, there are usually shared taxis/mini buses that head to the center of town once they are filled to capacity. That can save you a few dollars. But the wait and the cramped conditions probably aren't worth the meager savings if there are two of you. 

Crossing into Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, from Livingstone, Zambia

It's time to do the trip in reverse! Your hotel or guesthouse can arrange for a taxi to take you to the border on the Zambian side. You enter the border office to have your passport stamped with a Zambian exit stamp, and you are on your way.

The cheery and relaxed touts are happy to greet you as you step onto the bridge. Truly, there's no compelling reason to pause and look at any of the small displays of carvings that are clustered around the center of the bridge. However, it's as good a place as any to burn through any remaining Kwacha, including coins, that aren't worth exchanging at the currency desk. Same goes for Pula. 

One we arrived back at the border post in Zimbabwe, we once again showed our passports with the visas inside, got a stamp, and were on our way. Except not quite! Each time, we were waved through but told to go slightly to the left where we walked through what I can best describe as a shell of what I suspect might have once been a place where luggage was x-rayed or agricultural products were inspected. In both cases, there were just a few guys hanging out inside, avoiding the sun, and no one official was carrying out any business there. *Shrug*.

I should note that we did all our crossings with relative ease as we had just one backpack each. I don't think the crossing would be too bad if you had rolling suitcases but it is a hot, dusty walk that takes about 20 minutes from office to office. Taxis which do nothing but ferry people and their luggage across no-man's land and the bridge wait on both sides just after you receive your exit stamp.

If this sounds like the best plan for you and your luggage, tell the driver that brings you from your hotel to the border post that you'd like to grab a second cab to take you across the bridge itself (apparently, the taxis that take you to the border cannot also take you across the bridge to the next border. Even no-man's land has some rules!)  They'll send a runner or call a buddy on their cell and point you in the direction of the right car. Once you successfully cross the border post at your destination, you'll be on your own to find taxi #3 to get to your final destination.

The bridge taxi costs about $2-$5 depending on your negotiating skills, how much luggage you have, how busy they are, and how desperate you look. Note that when you make arrangements with a high end hotel or tour group to have your Zimbabwe Zambia border crossing or "transfer" taken care of,  you're essentially paying to have someone else quasi-organize these taxis in advance. There is no luxury van waiting to take you in one smooth ride - just a series of random cabs. Just how high is the mark up for this kind of "transfer" service? When we inquired about how much it would cost to be dropped off in Livingstone instead of Victoria Falls after our safari, we were quoted $100! We walked across the bridge on our own and paid $10 to go from the border into Livingstone. 

​You might also see this interesting taxi alternative on the Zambian side. When we stepped off the bridge and started up the slight hill towards the Zambia border post, a man appeared with a rickshaw-like cart, offering rides up the slope to the main border office for $1 - we passed. 

I can't say enough how easy every crossing was. Okay, it was a hot walk and after the fourth time, it felt rather routine. But considering all the horror stories I've heard about border crossings in Africa, this was utterly unremarkable. Stamp in, stamp out. Even when we had a few people ahead of us in line and we had to wait for them to fill out their visa forms, everything moved at a reasonable pace. There's absolutely no reason why any traveler couldn't do this land crossing on foot. And while a good part of the walk is rather dull, it's all worth it for the great views in the middle from Victoria Bridge. 

Victoria Falls Bridge: An attraction in and of itself

The views of the Batoka Gorge and the Zambezi River are just incredible from Victoria Falls Bridge. It's not hard to imagine the awe early visitors must have felt and why Victoria Falls is one of the wonders of the world. It surely must be the undisputed most beautiful border crossing in the world.

For daredevils - aka the people who are the opposite of me - the bridge also represents an incredible thrill. You can experience Victoria Falls bungee jumping right from the center of the bridge. It's operated by Shearwater and costs $160. I suspect the vastly more economical Victoria Falls bridge slide (kind of like a zip line) would satisfy all but the most die hard of thrill seekers/fools and costs just $45. I would be remiss if I didn't tell you that, in 2011, the bungee cord snapped and a tourist was sent plunging into the Zambezi river. She survived and I'm told that the bridge bungee is even busier than before because everyone now assumes things are extra safe thanks to all the new equipment. Still. NO.

What if you don't want to cross the Zimbabwe Zambia border but just want to go a little ways onto Victoria Bridge to take a few photos? If you have a Kaza visa or a multiple entry visa for your country of origin, it's no problem. You just follow the first few steps of the process and get an exit stamp and proceed onto the bridge. And since you have a multiple entry visa, when you turn around and head back, you officially re-enter the country you just left moments ago. 

However, if you don't have a visa that allows for multiple entries, I would say it's a bit murkier. Speak with the border staff. I did read one blog post (here) that said the Zimbabwean authorities would give you a piece of stamped paper to allow you to go onto the bridge and then come back through the border post even if you had just a single entry visa.  

Alas, I can't speak with much authority on this matter and here's why. Several outfitters in Victoria Falls and in Livingstone advertise guided tours of the Victoria Falls bridge for about $65, including the chance to walk across some of the beams and ramparts underneath the bridge itself. I've seen some websites which remind tour guests to bring their passports and others which say that there's no need to worry about visas.

​Here's my take - the tour companies have an arrangement with the border services whereby they are responsible for taking people partway across and there's no hassles about getting back. I don't know what the official policy is as we didn't take the tour but I wouldn't rely on the standards which apply to the tour participants to also stand for independent travelers.  I honestly can't say if you can unofficially 'leave' Zim or Zam to enter no-mans land for 30 minutes worth of photos and then scoot back across as if nothing happened. If you have any insights, please let me know. In the meantime, don't presume anything. 

Incidentally, if you take this tour, please report back! I've heard about a Victoria Bridge Visitors' Centre but I can't find it - same goes for a Bridge cafe and bar!! It's supposed to be in "no-man's land". Did we blindly miss it - four times in a row?

The cutest border crossing companions: Baboons and warthogs!

Sure, sure. Spectacular views from a bridge between two of the world's most legendary national parks is one thing. But have you ever seen a family of wee baby warthogs just sauntering on by, oblivious to transport trucks and foot traffic? Or a troop of baboons, joyfully overturning garbage cans without a care in the world? 

As always, wild animals should never be fed or approached. This is especially true for baboons, who are highly opportunistic. I wouldn't stroll around the bridge while munching a banana or carrying a grocery store bag of fresh fruit and sandwiches. While I blissfully walked around them in Zimbabwe, treating them as I would particularly large and grumpy raccoons (I'll ignore you and you'll ignore me),  my subsequent reading about baboons has led me to realize that I was probably pushing my luck in some cases. Give them a wide berth, don't make eye contact, and keep an eye on what everyone else is doing. If the locals are walking past them without a care in the world, so can you. 

Is it worth crossing the Zimbabwe Zambia border for just a few hours?

For passport-stamp junkies, this is an easy way to add an extra country to your travel count. But when you consider the accumulative cost of taxis and visas and the time spent to cross the border, is it worth it to cross the Victoria Falls Bridge for just a few hours?

If you're crossing from Zambia into Zimbabwe, I'd say the answer is a resounding YES. The entrance to Victoria Falls National Park is just a few steps away from the Victoria Falls border post. This National Park is extremely friendly to independent travelers. It's well laid out and easily explored on foot in a few hours (or even less even if you're really short on time and just want to see the main highlights.) This is THE reason to go to Victoria Falls. The views of the waterfalls are incredible and should not be missed. And between the craggy rocks, the lush plant life, and the inevitable baboons and warthogs, you're in for a great visit.

The on-sight cafe, the Rainforest Cafe, is run by Shearwater, the same folks behind the Victoria Bridge bungee jumps. They offer good food and the prices are in line with other restaurants in town which cater to tourists. The cappuccino is made with Zimbabwean coffee beans and served with a shot of Amaretto! We really enjoyed our lunch here, sitting under the thatched roof with spray machines circulating a cool, refreshing mist as we filled out the postcards we picked up in the gift shop. For anyone looking for more substantial souvenirs, there's a good craft market across the road and a moderate walk into the heart of Victoria Falls (about 20 minutes) brings even more cafes and shops. 

In short - don't miss it. Victoria Falls National Park is the ideal spot for foot traffic popping over the bridge. 

If you're coming from Zimbabwe over to Zambia, you'll find that the Zambian counterpart, Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, isn't quite so user friendly. Unlike its counterpart in Vic Falls, you can't really just walk in from the street and find a well organized walking path, informative plaques, polished facilities, and gourmet cappuccino. Things are rather rustic and transportation is required for Mosi-oa-Tunya's two sections.

One section lets you see the waterfalls from the Zambian side and is the gateway for one of the area's most extreme adventures - the Devil's Pool natural infinity pool on the edge of the falls. Just.... don't. Nope. So scary! To enjoy this section of the park, you need to go with a group to Devil's Pool or have your own vehicle and supplies for exploring, not exactly the easiest activity for day trippers.

The second section is for safari style wildlife drives and is the home of 11 beautiful white rhinoceros. We participated in a combination game drive and rhino safari walk and it was absolutely the highlight of our time in Zambia. We cannot recommend it highly enough. But you don't just pop over the border and hop on a safari jeep. You need to make advanced arrangements, which any hotel can help you with and notice of a day or two at most should be sufficient. There are two rhino focused game drives a day and I'd suggest the afternoon one so you can cross the border at a convenient time and wait at the border to be picked up. 

Post game drive, I'd recommend being dropped off at either a restaurant in town (we had Italian food at Da Canton, Indian food at Golden Leaf, and international-Zambian food at the Mango Tree Cafe inside ZigZag lodge) or at a waterfront bar (like the Victoria Falls Waterfront). This would give you a chance to at least see a little bit beyond the park and any restaurant can arrange for a taxi back to the border to conclude your journey. Note that while I haven't heard anything bad about crossing the border after sunset, it doesn't exactly strike me as a great plan either so pay attention to your timing, regardless of which direction you're traveling to.

In short, Victoria Falls is the winner for easy day-tripping adventures but the effort to organize a spot on the Mosi-oa-Tunya rhino safari walk is absolutely worth it. But if you can't swing it, missing out on a visit to Livingstone isn't the worst thing in the world. It's a nice, well appointed town but it isn't a trip deal breaker. 

An underrated border breakfast spot in Victoria Falls

Part of what made our combined time in Victoria Falls and Livingstone so enjoyable is that our multiple border crossings allowed us to see each community in a new light. We chatted with so many taxi drivers, we were always asking questions about the status of different buildings under repair, and it gave us the chance to vary where we were picked up and dropped off. One lucky choice of destination for us while we were on route to our first bridge crossing was The Lookout Cafe in Victoria Falls.

Operated by Wild Horizons, a leading provider of Victoria Falls activities, The Lookout Cafe offers phenomenal views of the Batoka Gorge, the Zambezi River, and Victoria Falls Bridge itself. It really is one of those locations that make you gasp in admiration when you first take in the breadth of the view.  

While enjoying breakfast on their open-air veranda, we watched with a mix of admiration and horror as hearty travelers made the most of Wild Horizon’s adrenaline-fueled activity options located on site. If anything, it's even more spectacular than the bungee options on the bridge itself. As there is absolutely nothing on this earth that could convince me to jump out into the abyss, I can’t comment on the quality of the different Victoria Falls bungee and rope based activities they offer. But everyone seemed to survive and even have a good time!

When I gazed down from the terrace to watch the tiny specks which were the white water rafters on the Zambezi, I suddenly had a very clear appreciation why Victoria Falls activities are so spectacularly popular. It’s not just because of the fantastic park or the nearby wildlife. This is one of the world’s best extreme sports locations and the chance to see it in action (but not actually take part!) was a real bonus. It felt like I got to see and experience a completely different side of the genteel town I explored. 

I’m SO happy that we made The Lookout Cafe one of our stops. I initially chose it because our Victoria Falls hotel, the otherwise lovely Flatdogs Lodge, had a rather paltry breakfast (a not-uncommon occurrence in Victoria Falls' unpredictable supply chain). I thought since we were on route to the border anyway, it was as good a place as any to visit. 

Breakfast at The Lookout Cafe was very good - not exceptional but far better than our hotel and on par with the offerings at the other nice restaurants in town. Ryan had bacon and eggs and I had pancakes with bananas (not quite the promised mountain of fruit and cream but that's Victoria Falls for you), along with a latte in a fancy glass. Breakfast mains rang in around $10, and fancy coffee drinks $3. (Note: The Lookout Cafe is closed for renovations until May 2019 but the activities remain unaffected.) 

The driveway to The Lookout Cafe is very close to the border and the main entrance to Victoria Falls National Park. However, it’s not really suitable for walking. For one thing, the hot, dusty road is much longer than you initially think and, for another, there are ample signs prohibiting walking due to danger from wild animals. Any taxi that would take you to the park or the border can take you to The Lookout Cafe and the cost should be the same (we paid about $5 from the center of town).

To return to the town center or carry on to the border and across the bridge, the cafe staff can call a taxi for you (it should only be a few dollars) but more likely than not you can take the free Wild Horizons shuttle van provided it’s not out on a run to bring more people to the activities center.

Practical information for going across the Victoria Falls Bridge on foot to cross the Zimbabwe Zambia border. 

As a gal who loves to plan out her travels, I was initially frustrated by the lack of concrete information about crossing the Zimbabwe Zambia border on foot at Victoria Falls. What do they mean when they say that you won't be able to miss the currency exchange office, or that getting a taxi really won't be a problem? All my worries were for naught. Every trip went smoothly and we had no regrets about the itineraries and activities that required us to hop back and forth between the two countries. 

Victoria Falls Activities:

Victoria Fall Bungee Jumping

Wild Horizons: Has bungee jumping and different kinds of zip lines that operate from their location at The Lookout Cafe.

Shearwater: Operates the Victoria Falls Bridge bungee jumping and other activities around town - including the Victoria Fall Bridge tour.

Livingstone Activities:

Mosi-oa-Tunya safari game drives and rhinoceros walks

Livingstone Rhino Safari: Is primary walking based (up to three hours) and has morning and afternoon bookings.

Savannah Southern Safari: Similar to the Livingstone Rhino program.

The Explorer Club Africa: Does game drives in Mosi-oa-Tunya that can include seeing the rhinos. 

Victoria Falls Bridge Border Crossing Times

General Public: 6:00 am to 10:00 pm​

Kaza Univisa and entry information for Zambia and Zimbabwe 

I like this page from the Zambian government. It explains what the visa covers, where you can get it, who is eligible, and more.

You can see thefees for other Zambian visas here. Note that a single entry visa is $50 (the same as Kaza!) but a Day Tripper visa for a quick visit is only $20 - perfect if you aren't spending the night.

Here's a good summary of visa costs for visiting Zimbabwe. Canadians, take note. A single entry visa is $75US. UGH. You will save a lot of money and have greater travel flexibility with a Kaza visa.