TURNIPSEED TRAVEL
  • Home
  • Blog
  • About Us
  • Resources
  • Partner With Us
  • New Visitors
  • Social Media

Visiting Fortress Louisbourg 101: 5 Tips To Make The Most Of Your Trip

10/2/2018

 

Visiting Fortress Louisbourg for the first time? Here's our inside tips for food, accommodations, activities.... and footwear. 

​This post contains affiliate links, which means if you make a purchase, we may be paid a small commission.

Visiting Fortress Louisbourg: Firing cannons at Fortress Louisbourg Nova Scotia Picture
Cannon firing is the highlight of the day when visiting Fortress Louisbourg.
"Half of you are wearing blue! And the other half have some red! What's going on? I can't tell if you're French or the dreaded English. Maybe I shouldn't let any of you pass."

It's never a great idea to provoke an armed guard, but when you visit Fortress Louisbourg National Historic Site in Nova Scotia, Canada, dramatic flair is all part of the experience. Louisbourg has been described as the jewel of all Canadian historic sites - an apt term, considering how precious the fortress was to the French.

In the 1740s, Louisbourg's size, importance, and operating costs were unmatched in North America. As the second most important French settlement in North America (after Quebec City), Louisbourg was quickly transformed from a small fishing settlement to a massive fortified town on the cusp of the Atlantic Ocean. Though remote and built on finicky, low lying grounds, the fortress was a major bargaining chip as France and Great Britain battled for control of Europe and the New World.

By 1758, Louisbourg was firmly under British control - but it saw a different kind of war in the 1960s. Architects, historians, archaeologists, and engineers battled a new enemy - damage, decay, ruin, and erosion - as they undertook North America's largest restoration project. Today, Louisbourg is a Parks Canada National Historic Site and the muskets are fired for demonstration only . But you can still expect plenty of French versus English jokes from the gate guards, along with a host of other historical adventures. Here are our best tips for making the most of your visit. 

Getting to Louisbourg - and Getting Inside! (Plus: Admission Advice).

Visitors Centre Fortress Louisbourg Picture
Entering the visitor's centre on a sunny morning.
Officially, Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site is a 40 minute drive from Sydney, the largest city on Nova Scotia's Cape Breton Island (and just a few hours from where I grew up!) Unofficially, I'd say it's closer to an hour. The road is a single paved lane with plenty of turns and dips and (I hate to say it....) the pavement wasn't in fantastic shape during our last visit. I'll get my revenge, pot holes! Take your time and drive carefully.

There are a few small gas stations and basic corner stores along the route but this is a rural area - you'll be hard pressed to find much along the way in terms of extra amenities (translation - get your coffee and breakfast before you head out). 

When you arrive, you'll be greeted by the large, modern visitors' centre and spacious parking lot. During high season, there is a shuttle bus in continuous operation that transports visitors from the centre to the Fortress. The ride just takes a few short minutes and, in theory, it wouldn't be terribly inconvenient to return to the centre to, say, retrieve something from your car - but as you'll soon read, it's probably best to take everything you need with you in a small backpack. I've read that in the low season, you can drive your car and park directly on site at the Fortress but I haven't done this personally myself.

Before you pay your admission fee (about $17.60), take a moment to think about your future travels. Will you be visiting other National Historic Sites or National Parks? A Parks Canada Discovery Pass is about $67. Given that Louisbourg has one of the more expensive admission costs, you wouldn't have to visit that many more sites for your pass pay for itself.

The Weather at Fortress Louisbourg: It's A Wild Ride.

Weather at Fortress Louisbourg Picture
Are those troublesome clouds forming?
Touring Fortress Louisbourg - Ryan stands by a stone building
Nope - nothing but clear skies and beaming sun.
I am the only person in recorded history who has experienced blazing sun during every visit I've made to Louisbourg. THIS IS NOT NORMAL! Louisbourg is in a league of its own, weather wise. It doesn't matter what's happening in nearby Sydney. Louisbourg is a spit of land completely exposed to whatever the Atlantic Ocean wants to hurl at it. It is very common for the rest of Cape Breton Island to have gloriously warm, sunny weather, and yet Louisbourg will be blanketed in heavy fog, intermittent mist, and chilly winds. 

Remember earlier, when I suggested that you bring along a small backpack? This small bag will save your sanity in Louisbourg. You're going to want to pack a light, waterproof jacket, an umbrella (we love this $8 one), and a lightweight sweater or heavier long sleeve shirt. If you have long hair, you'll be grateful for pony tail holders when the wind picks up.

No matter the forecast, pack sunscreen and a hat. If you're like me and happen to visit on a beautiful day, sunburns are in your future. The Fortress offers little in terms of relief from the baking sun. (I'd also pack a bottle of water, a small snack like a granola bar, a few dollars in cash - more on that in a minute - and some bug spray or spritz yourself and your gear before you head out). We often use this classic pack from The North Face as our go-to day bag.

Long, light weight trousers are a better idea than shorts for both warmth and rain protection AND sun protection. And on your feet, well.....

Where There Are Ducks, There Is Poop.

A white duck looks at the camera
Three brown chickens
Vanessa pats a white sheep who is eating grass
Louisbourg is an authentic, accurate representation of French garrison and town life during the 1700s. Many of the original materials, such as stones, were repurposed during the fort's restoration and painstaking effort has been made to make everything as authentic as possible. That means using natural materials. That means having gardens which reflect the period. And that means ducks. And geese. And chickens. And all other kinds of animals that would be important to a self sustaining military base. 

And that means poop!

So how much poop is there? Very, very little, in fact. These are well mannered animals and you're unlikely to see (or smell) much evidence of their... digestion... Unless you show up wearing flip flops. This is  not a flip flop kind of place. And if poop isn't deterrent enough, imagine how muddy things get during the rain! Add in a lot of walking and you'll be very happy you're wearing sneakers. 

Eat Like A Soldier (And DEFINITELY Save Room For Dessert).

Ryan and Vanessa sit in the restaurant
A military assignment to Fortress Louisbourg was not necessarily a desired post. The area was extremely isolated, with both France and Quebec very far away. Supplies, comforts, and communication were irregular at best. The weather was unforgiving and the living conditions for the common soldier were rough. And the food, well, it's best enjoyed with a modern twist!

I mentioned bringing a few dollars in your pack. At Louisbourg, you can visit the King's Bakery where the soldiers' rations of bread were baked in a wood burning oven. The oven is once again baking fresh bread and you can purchase one of a large, round loaves (about half the size of a conventional loaf of bread) on site but be warned: The white flour bread is delicious, every bit as yummy as you'd expect. But the brown flour loaf, a blend of wholemeal and rye flour, is an entirely different story.

This was the soldier's bread and it is remarkably heavy and dense, weighing in at 6 pounds. Combined with salt pork, it was the primary staple of their diet. It is a challenging exercise to eat a small chunk of it- especially without considerable jam and butter. I'm sure it provided sound nutrition for the French soldiers but it's not exactly soft and fluffy.

The nearby Grandchamps and Hotel de la Marine were bright spots in the soldiers' otherwise bleak routine. Once a site for them to eat, drink, and be merry, it's now a not for profit restaurant. Meals are simple, with robust snacks like hearty pea soup and bread (white bread, that is!) or bread and cheese costing about $5. Combined with the main dish of the day (meat or fish and vegetables) and tea or coffee, a full menu is just $16. If it's a rainy, chilly day, you'll want some of their hot chocolate - or hot rum punch. And you absolutely, definitely, 100% NEED to order the bread pudding.

This is a bread pudding unlike anything I've ever had before. Instead of cubed chunks of bread, the texture is smooth and the flavor resembles a delicious spice cake. It is marvelously delicious and is my decided favourite. Honestly, it's worth going to Fortress Louisbourg just for the bread pudding.

(It's not very often I get to warn people about duck poop in one paragraph and then heartily endorse a dessert in the next so let's just take a moment to chuckle about that, shall we?)

Note that you'll be eating just a like a solider of the 1700s would - and that means just one utensil, a giant pewter spoon. Here's a tip - if you ask for salt or pepper, you'll get a small pewter bowl of it. You can use the tip of your spoon's handle to scoop out the equivalent of a tiny pinch.

Plan Ahead For Some One-In-A-Lifetime Experiences. 

Fortress Louisbourg camping and rum tasting Picture
Vanessa stands in a stone tunnel
Wooden barrels and boxes in a storage room
Close up of the stone fortification wall
The buildings you see represents only 25% or so of Fortress Louisbourg's original footprint - it's hard to imagine just how vast and mighty it was at the peak of French power. You should count on putting in a full day to take in all the sites, activities, and attractions. Nearly every restored and reconstructed building is staffed by costumed guides who are eager to welcome you and help you enjoy interactive historic experiences, like helping in the vegetable garden (or maybe chasing the ducks back in the yard...)  But that's just the tip of the iceberg (or the Louis-bourg, if you will....)

With advanced arrangements, you can take part in activities as diverse as making hot chocolate with 18th century ingredients and tools or learning about the early rum trade and sampling some Fortress rum punch (both about $10), to sleeping overnight in a period-appropriate tent or historic home ($70-$120). 

Even if you don't decide to sleep under the stars, surrounded by history, it's still prudent to arrange advanced booking for your Louisbourg accommodations. Louisbourg - the modern village, that is - has a handful of historic homes serving as bed and breakfasts, a motel, and a smattering of rental cottages. Many are closed in the low season and then fully booked in the high season. An unexpected drive back to Sydney will definitely feel a lot longer than the official "40 minutes" in the dark, at the end of a long day, so plan ahead accordingly. 

You can find an accommodation list and more resources about the village here. In particular, here's two properties to note:
  • Point Of View Suites: It's closest to the Fortress, offers spacious rooms, has dining options, and is at the higher end of the price point. You can read reviews here andcheck availability here.
  • Fortress Inn Louisbourg: It's a basic no frills motel, clean, affordable. You can read reviews here and check availability here.

No trip to eastern Canada is complete without a stop at Fortress Louisbourg. Whether you're on team red or team blue, whether it's foggy or sunny, you're going to have an unforgettable visit. Don't forget to order the bread pudding!
​
If you enjoyed this piece, you'll also like:


​A Photo Tour of Rural Malagash, Nova Scotia 
North Shore Nova Scotia's Greatest Grub
Hidden Eyes and Community Ties in Annapolis Royal
Noel link
11/2/2018 02:13:44 pm

I love historic places like this and this is a huge fortress, I would love to visit when they do re-enactments especially if there is fresh bread made from a baker that does it to the old times with a really good churned butter.

Vanessa
12/2/2018 03:50:57 pm

I WISH they had a butter churning station next to the bakery - that would be so perfect.

Ami Bhat link
12/2/2018 05:13:27 am

Seems like quite an interactive and engaging visit. I like the place for the heritage bit it offers but more so for the activities as well. I would love to make chocolates the ancient way. Good tips on getting here, makes the post even more useful

Vanessa
12/2/2018 03:52:18 pm

I would love the hot chocolate class as well!

Siddhartha Joshi link
12/2/2018 11:15:06 pm

Truly fascinating...I love stories seeped in history and I am so glad you started the story Fortress of Louisbourg with it's past! I know so little about the history of Canada and it's always great to know more - knowledge always inspires me to travel even more :)

Btw great pics to go with the story :)

Vanessa
13/2/2018 12:02:56 pm

It really is a place with such a fascinating history and you get to discover Canada from an entirely different point of view.

Anita Hendrieka link
13/2/2018 03:19:42 am

I had never heard of this place until I read your post! Seems like a great place to learn about the history of Canada. Did I read a hot chocolate class?! Count me in!

Vanessa
13/2/2018 12:03:31 pm

I thought for sure that everyone would fall in love with the rum class but hot chocolate seems to be the clear winner.

Rosie link
13/2/2018 04:15:51 am

I’d never heard of Fortress Louisbourg before but it sounds like a really fun day out. I love living history attractions so I think I’d Ralph enjoy eating my lunch with a spoon or getting to take part in the activities. I think the rum punch would be my number one! (Also, Louis-berg made me giggle a lot)

Vanessa
13/2/2018 12:04:15 pm

Finally - someone who wants the rum as much as the hot chocolate ha ha!

Christopher link
13/2/2018 03:59:19 pm

Very awesome Fortress Louisbourg reminds me of the re-enactments at Fort York here in Toronto. There is more old buildings there so i assume it really adds to the story telling. After spending a long/birthday weekend in Newfoundland & Labrador I’ve been itching to come back to the east coast. Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island are so high on my list. I will be passing through here.

Vanessa
14/2/2018 01:39:09 pm

This is definitely a must-see place if you go to Nova Scotia.

Mike link
13/2/2018 07:53:05 pm

Oh wow, how cool would it be to stay in one of the tents like they use to stay in. Sounds like you did a lot of activities though. So it's a lot more than just a pretty site to walk around, eh? Might need to check this out on our next trip to our brothers to the north!

Vanessa
14/2/2018 01:41:47 pm

I think the tent experience would be amazing (but I don't know if there's any ghosts lingering around this old fort!)


Comments are closed.
    Recent Posts
    Posts by Location
    Turnipseed Travel Category Canada
    Turnipseed Travel Category USA
    Turnipseed Travel Category Europe
    Turnipseed Travel Category Africa
    Turnipseed Travel Category Australia
    Turnipseed Travel Category Asia

    Post Categories

    All
    $200 Challenge
    200m Challenge
    Accommodation
    Africa
    Amsterdam
    Anti Adventurist
    Asia
    Australia
    Belgium
    Business Travel
    Camping
    Canada
    Central Counties
    Cozy Travel
    Destinations
    Europe
    Experiences & Activities
    Female Travel
    Food And Drink
    Gear And Packing
    Golf
    Greece
    Guest Posts & Interviews
    Health
    Inspiration
    Making Travel Memories
    Montreal
    Most Popular Posts
    National Parks
    Norfolk County
    Ontario
    Ottawa
    Paris
    Partners
    Pet Travel
    Photo Essay
    Preparation
    Press Trip Portfolio
    Reviews Accommodation
    Reviews Gear Packing
    Round The World
    Saving
    Toronto
    Transportation
    Travel Cooking
    Travel Memories Series
    UK & Ireland
    United States

    Posts by Date

    March 2023
    February 2023
    January 2023
    December 2022
    November 2022
    October 2022
    September 2022
    August 2022
    July 2022
    June 2022
    May 2022
    April 2022
    March 2022
    February 2022
    January 2022
    December 2021
    November 2021
    October 2021
    September 2021
    August 2021
    July 2021
    June 2021
    May 2021
    April 2021
    March 2021
    February 2021
    January 2021
    December 2020
    October 2020
    August 2020
    July 2020
    June 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    February 2020
    January 2020
    December 2019
    November 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    July 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019
    January 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    June 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016
    October 2016
    September 2016
    August 2016
    July 2016
    June 2016
    May 2016
    April 2016
    March 2016
    February 2016
    January 2016
    December 2015
    November 2015
    October 2015
    September 2015
    August 2015
    July 2015
    June 2015
    May 2015
    April 2015
    March 2015
    February 2015
    January 2015
    December 2014
    November 2014
    October 2014
    September 2014
    August 2014
    July 2014
    June 2014
    May 2014
    April 2014
    March 2014
    February 2014
    January 2014
    December 2013
    November 2013
    October 2013
    September 2013
    August 2013
    July 2013
    June 2013
    May 2013
    April 2013
    March 2013
    February 2013
    January 2013
    December 2012
    November 2012
    October 2012
    September 2012
    August 2012
    July 2012
    June 2012
    May 2012

Disclaimers, Privacy, and Cookie Policy

Top 100 Travel Influencer
As named by the Obama White House in 2014.​
White House Study Abroad Logo 2014
Turnipseed Travel Logo 2019
DMCA.com Protection Status
© COPYRIGHT 2022. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
  • Home
  • Blog
  • About Us
  • Resources
  • Partner With Us
  • New Visitors
  • Social Media